Ion Fiz, Sara Coleman, Davidelfin, Juanjo Oliva, AA de Amaya Arzuaga, Duyos, Devota & Lomba and Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada.
Ion Fiz focus on feminine shapes, and delicate materials as silk and lace, introducing multifunctional jackets and wearable coats.
Sara Coleman showed a pure line collection mixing materials as mohair and cotton. The multicolour wool aplication in sleeves was a good combination, very comfortable and easywearing, though not very risky and quite correct.
Davidelfin presented total looks in white, only disturbed by red. Some of the pieces like shirt necks and waist trousers made a kind off “not properly fitted” effect, as if it was superpositioned, as you can see at the Bimba Bose image (strange effect anyway). The collection is pure and quite aseptic in contrast to the last one, where all the pantone colors where displayed. In this case I like the light of white, though more thinking of the summer than a winter collection.
Juanjo Oliva, the smartest collection so far, with Verino (in my humble opinion). Minimalist lines, monochromatic looks, fox fur details and open backs.
AA de Amaya Arzuaga creates volumes on the front and makes bicolor combinations, according to her identity code of geometric shapes so recognizable.
Duyos shows ladylike,in different colours as champagne, blue and chocolate brown. Lenghts under the knees, jumpsuits and very special hats.
Devota & Lomba doesn´t present just one way. We can see structured pieces, feminine skirts, militar colour, boots of the sixties, kind of revival of the disco…different references with no order apparently.
Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada, keeps on presenting her unique universe full of colour, hearts and half moons. Her iconic dresses as the Daisy, the Christmas tree present, the huge heart…are reviewed, so as the table one. When I see this dress, I can´t help thinking of “Martes y 13” sketch, in which she is sitted at her own table dress…
She is coherent with her brand, building her peculiar universe, mixed with other proposals more easygoing. The masks inspired on Margiela covered faces, give it a different touch.